PERU | It all started already with a negative feeling. We couldn’t do Chopicalqui as we planned because there is a huge crevasse and nobody currently passes it.
Then we wanted to do Artesonraju, but our guide said the conditions were bad (which wasn’t true). So we ended up with Huascaràn Sur, the highest mountain in Peru.
For the normal route you go from the base camp, to the moraine camp, to campo 1 and then campo 2. Campo 2 is already at 6000m. But turns out we had only one portero for the first three days. So we had to carry tents, food, alpine material etc. up to campo 1. Normally you do that with at least two people, but our guide wasn’t there. And then we we lost our trust in the guide, who said the searcs are harmless (they were huge and everything is falling apart on this mountain). It was blowing the whole night like crazy and destroyed almost out tent.
So at 3 am we took the decision not to go because of the strong wind, the lack of trust and the seracs.
Safely back in the base camp, we are of course sad, disappointed and frustrated. To turn around is healthy and absolutely necessary in the mountains, but usually doesn’t cost that much money.
Where: Moshu 3h up to the base camp with the donkeys, then around 3h moraine camp and another 3h to campo 1 in the snow. From there it’s 5h to camp 2 where you cross the canaleta (full of seracs). The ascent you do then in 7-8h to the summit, no technical skills required.
What: The highest mountain (6700m) in Peru, but not the most interesting. Moral of the story: Trust your gusts and you can not always win.