Mountaineering: Tocllaraju

PERU | After all the acclimatization and the trial mountains of Urus and Ishinca we were ready for the real deal. Well some of us, Ugo was stressed already the whole week and didn’t feel well. So he had to descent to Huaraz unfortunately.

We packed our gear and tents and went up to the high camp at 5100m. We were excited and a little scared because we saw this mountain for a whole week every day!

The high camp is in the rocks next to the glacier, so it’s very cold and not very comfy. But they (cook, assistent and guide) did their best and we had tea and a soup, bedtime was 6 o’ clock and breakfast at midnight. So it was a short night anyways.

We started at 1:30 am and reached the summit at 9:10 am, it was a very cold, a very dark (sun comes out after 6 am) and a windy ascent with a lot of climbing parts. And climbing a wall at this altitude is pretty hard and exhausting! I never did something so difficult and long in my life!

Where: Huaraz, Ishinca base camp Moraine Camp, Tocllaraju (8h up, 4h down to the high camp, 2h down to the base camp)

What: my first 6000m mountain 😎

You can only appreciate it once the sun is out!

I’m wearing a mask, because my eyeballs are freezing in the wind. And because I wear contacts, I need to protect them.

Fun part: Rappelling down
This is pretty hard at this altitude. I had to stop and breathe multiple times.

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